Status: Away – The Cotswolds, England
Estimated read time: 3.5 minutes
As we settle into the coziness of winter, we can’t help but daydream about the charming stone cottages, fireside cocktails and rolling hills of the Cotswolds. With over 50 towns and villages to explore, selecting just a few can feel like a daunting task.
Luckily, Christine W., from the Air Canada Vacations team, visited the Cotswolds this past September and she’ll be sharing her experience, as well as some insider tips for making the most out of your escape.
The Cotswolds is the perfect spot to get away from it all and is such an easy walking destination. September weather is still warm, and it only rained briefly once.
Quick tips:
- Book taxis for arriving at/departing from train stations.
- Pack walking shoes or boots and a rain jacket for field walking when it’s rainy out.
- Leave space in your luggage for some antique finds.
The Cotswolds
I stayed for five days at two different villages, Burford and Lower Slaughter, with visits to a few more nearby villages. With so many towns and villages to explore, to see everything you would need to rent a car and spend more time there. This was a ‘slow travel’ trip for me, so I wanted to take my time wandering and only focused on a few spots. I planned my own trip, but there are guided tours to some of the villages.
Getting around
The Cotswolds are about 1.5 hours by train from Paddington Station in London; Great Western Railway goes to several towns in the area. I took the train into Charlbury station and left from Moreton-in-Marsh, which were both about 20 minutes from the villages I stayed in.
I’d recommend booking a taxi in advance for train station transport and for visiting towns that aren’t within walking distance. They do have Uber there but there aren’t many drivers, so it’s not always available.
With over 480 km of footpaths, walking is definitely the main pastime there. The Cotswolds Way alone stretches over 160 km! The footpaths pass through various farms, divided by fences with built-in steps that you can climb over. You’ll run into some cows, who won’t be too interested in what you’re doing.
Where to explore
Burford
I started my trip in this bustling market town, full of cute pubs, cafes and of course, the cozy Madhatter Bookshop. It’s a great place to browse for antiques at shops like Antiques at the George or Manfred Schotten Antiques, or traditional remedies at Reavley Chemist (the building it’s in can be traced back to 1401!). Nearby Burford Garden Centre is also a fun browse.
Lower Slaughter
As soon as I arrived in Lower Slaughter (the word ‘slaughter’ derives from the Old English word ‘slough’ or ‘wet land’), I felt calmer. It’s exactly how you picture the English countryside, with babbling brooks and weeping willows, and is home to historic hotels like The Old Mill and St. Mary’s Church. Upper Slaughter is also worth a short visit and is only a 20-minute walk away, featuring more beautiful homes and tranquil paths.
Day trips
About a 30-minute walk away from Lower Slaughter is Bourton-on-the-Water, which is known for its picturesque stone bridges. I loved The Model Village, a 1/9th scale replica of the village itself, which you can walk through. I always look for souvenirs at flea markets or antique shops while travelling, so I enjoyed poking around at The Looking Glass.
Stow-on-the-Wold (meaning ‘Holy Place on the Hill’), is about an hour’s walk from Lower Slaughter and hosts a monthly farmer’s market. There are also a lot of shops in this village; I especially enjoyed looking for treasures over three levels at Tara Antique Centre.
Things to eat
Breakfast is a big deal in England—and it’s also my favourite meal so I appreciated that the inns included it with my stay. Of course, scones and clotted cream with afternoon tea is a must while there. Huffkins has several locations in England and there’s one in Burford.
A few more favourites:
- The fried chicken at Horn at The Bull, Burford—originally a coaching inn that dates to 1536, now a modern boutique hotel.
- In Lower Slaughter, while on the walk to Bourton-on-the-Water, I stopped into the Hawkstone brewery for some cider in their bar, which is set up like a tent—such a cool experience!
- Bar Foletta for a coffee or glass of wine in Stow-on-the-Wold.